Sunday, February 14, 2010

Lumut


As a young girl, I spent every weekend of mine in Lumut, which, back in the 1980s, probably had a population of less than 500. It was a town where everybody knew each other. Back then, there was only a single petrol station, 2 gardens by the beach, a broken windmill, lots of greens everywhere we went.

There were many sundry shops which sold several types of knick knacks, the kind where little kids love to go every evening, just to buy some snacks to munch, tops to spin around, and colourful glass marbles which came in all shapes and sizes. The shopkeepers even sold rubberbands in boxes, which little girls could purchase and tie them into skipping ropes and hoola hoops, just for fun.

Beside the station, stood a Chinese temple. Every major Chinese festival, the whole town would practically throng to this temple to pray to the Gods and Deities, praying for the wellbeing of their family members, their grandchildren's studies, and the rolling in of thick wads of cash. Every lantern festival, there'd be a local troop, performing the long lost Chinese art of opera shows, re-telling every story of fairies and devils in history. Sometimes, we'd listen to the history of the Monkey God, the 7 fairies, and the Butterfly Lovers. On the actual day, we'd all take part in a procession down the street, carrying our self-made, brightly lit and decorated lanterns, singing songs, having mooncakes, admiring the moon and coming up with poems by our ancestors.

Just before the sun set, the mosque down the street would air their Azan prayers. The only street into Lumut town were always packed with people at that hour. Some turning into the mosque, some walking into the temple, some taking a stroll in the only garden in Lumut with a clock tower. During then, there were practically very little cars. As kids, we could always cross the streets blindfolded, safe and sound. In the evenings, my naughty cousins would be running by the beach, wading in the salty sea water, digging in the sands for horseshoe crabs, just for the fun of it.

Life, was simple back then. There weren't so many hotels erected by the beach. Tourists trickled in. It was easy to differentiate between locals and tourists. As children, we could mingle around with each other freely, without worrying about being kidnapped or murdered. Everybody looked out for each other all the time. If one of the neighbours found us gambling, we would have been punished the moment we came back. Whenever we, the little kids, walked around town, we'd be identified as our parent's kids, and get things at a cheaper price. When I was growing up, There were only about 2 ferries, which belonged to the same company, to transport passengers to and fro across Pangkor to Lumut.

Today, Lumut is a very different town. It has been developed into a town which has diversed industries. Fabrication yards, exportation hub, industrial area, even a tourist destination! In fact, now, there are at least 6 ferries from 2 companies, ferrying passengers every 15 minutes. Streets are so much wider. Both sides of the roads are lined with cars all the time. There's even a waterfront at the jetty! The beach, it's no longer there. It's been replaced by a stone wall and brick tiles. There's even a KFC and a 7-Eleven and laundry service in the town. There are more than 8 different hotels in the disrict which has high occupancy rate on any given day. The only reminder that it used to be the town that I played in and spent my childhood, is the black and white windmill by the seaside. It has survived the test of time, strong winds, torrents and rain, albeit looking rusty and worn down.

Somebody once told me, "the only thing that is constant in life, is change." How true! Whenever I return to this small town every once in a while, there'll always be little monuments that surprise me. Yes. Without change, from whence come progress?

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Pangkor


Pangkor, is an island about half an hour away from Lumut. Unlike other islands, such as Tioman or Redang, which are truly secluded, and located in the middle of the ocean, Pangkor is so near that we can see it from the shores of Lumut, and Teluk Batik beach. A few years back, a pair of Malaysian sibblings tirelessly and courageously swam across the sea, from Lumut to Pangkor. In fact, from the beach, it doesn't seem that far, perhaps about 1-2km apart.

Pangkor used to be an island which thrived on the fishing industry. When we were young, all our fishes were caught by the fishermen from Pangkor Island. Every evening (sometimes in the morning), traders'd gather at the jetty, waiting for the fishermen to return from the seas, eagerly awaiting a large harvest from the deep seas. When the boats arrive, the fishes will be filled into big, red boxes, filled with ice to the brim. Ocassionally, on certain evenings, my mom'd visit the nearest fishmonger to select the best fishes and sometimes prawns too and cook it an hour later!

Ahh... fresh products from the sea. How I miss them so!

Well, that's what I remember about Pangkor. Fishes and beaches.

So, whenever my friends and colleagues ask me, "What's in Pangkor? Is it fun? Why do so many people throng to this island by the hundreds every holiday season?"

My answer will always remain the same. "There's not much to see there. It's not like Pulau Redang, with spectacular sandy beaches, and colourful corals and abundant fishes like Nemo. Perhaps, if it's your first trip to any island, you will be mesmerized. But, if you've been to Redang or Sipadan, you will be disappointed." Hmm.. this reminds me of my trip to Manado in 2008. I think I'd describe my trip back then as being similar to visiting Pangkor Island. It's a plain and simple life out here, suitable for families with kids and people who are highly strung and stressed out. But, it's definitely not for those seeking a thrill in diving or adrenaline, blood curdling adventures.

Hence, when I visited Pangkor Island twice, in December and January respectively, I was pleasantly surprised! The jetty had just been renovated. The ancient cement slabs of pathways had been replaced with clean, pastel shaded coloured tiles. Blue plastic chairs strategically located at the waiting area were placed in several neat rows. As visitors arrived, big, dark, tall, rough men no longer stood right at the entrance, in a big group, beckoning tourists to use their vehicle for a tour around the island.

Instead, now, they have been replaced by by short, thin men offering car rental services. Maps of the island are even provided on pieces of paper measuring 4x6 inches! In just a matter of 10 years, the main industry of Pangkor Island has increased. Today, it does not only depend on the fishing industry for livelihood, but on the tourism industry as well. Life on the island is definitely becoming more and more lively!

Friday, February 12, 2010

Tourist Destinations


So, what's there to see in Pangkor?


Well, first of all , we have the Dutch Fort, which was built during the Dutch occupation in 1670, destroyed 1690 years later, rebuilt a few years later, and protected until 1743, and was subsequently abandoned and destroyed. Today, what's left of it are 3 connected walls, with holes for windows and spotting enemies within them.


Next, we have beaches. Teluk Nipah, Golden Sands, Pasir Bogak, Coral Bay... these are just some of them. There's a unique view of the sea at each location. At Pasir Bogak, the sea looks blue, plain, calming, soothing, clinical, sky-blue. At Coral Bay, looking at the sea is like staring into the mirror. It's so clear and translucent that one can even spot the corals beneath it from afar! The most popular beach in Pangkor Island is Teluk Nipah. Here, tourists often spend a few nights and days, just swimming, diving, snorkelling, and riding banana boats skimming across the slippery, glassy surface of the ocean. Across Coral Bay, there's an island which is accessible by foot from the beaches of Coral Bay only on the 1st and 2nd day of Chinese New Year, every year. What an amazing phenomena!


Apart from beaches and forts, Pangkor Island is also famous for its mini Great Wall of China. Here, visitors are afforded a magnificent view from the slopes of the mountains of the densely populated residential areas facing the sea. There's even a giant boulder with the word 'destiny' in Chinese Characters. It has stood there throughout 3 generations, and it's still planted solidly in its location. My brother took a picture with that rock 20 years ago. When I compared it with a recent picture of it, the colour of the word on the rock has not faded a single bit.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Taste Buds Stimulants

Since Pangkor is an island, naturally, it is a must to try all the seafood products here. We have all kinds of crabs, fishes & shelled creatures; Big crabs, small crabs, blue crabs, green crabs, red crabs; Kampung fish, pomfret, ikan bilis, ikan tenggiri, you name it.


Due to the fact there is a daily catch from the sea, there'll always be leftovers after market traders select the fishes and crabs they'd like to purchase. So, what do the fishermen do with these leftovers? Some of them bring it home to their wives as prized catches. Some dry them on the wooden planks outside their homes for several days, package it and sell it as snacks and delicacies, commonly known as 'satay'. We have satay jellyfish, sotong & fish on sticks. Hmmm! Yummy! Once you taste it, it'll definitely leave you wanting for more!


Apart from that, almost every restaurant here sells seafood as the main dish. Walk into any shop and you'll be able to get all kinds of seafood cooked according to the styles you fancy. Steamed, fried, curried, deep fried, Thai Style, tomyam style, thick gravy, diluted gravy, soups, and even grilled on charcoal & wrapped in freshly plucked banana leaves! It is definitely a culinary heaven for seafood lovers.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Scarce Lands

In Pangkor, land is scarce. Everything is spaced approximately 1 metre apart, except for the roads (2 metres at least, 3 metres at most).



In fact, I just found out that there are 2 types of land in Pangkor, government and privately owned land. Most houses here are built on private land owned by individuals, whereby the owner of the land own several acres and transfer these title deeds from one generation to another. The owners of these houses are considered as tenants of these land and are required to pay monthly rental fees. It is quite a risky situation as the owner of the house does not have total control over the land he is living upon.

What if one of the owners of the land decided to sell it off to a housing developer? The owner of the house will then have to seek another place to be called 'home'. Nevertheless, I think such cases are rare in Pangkor as most of the kids here are pretty matured, considerate and intelligent. Besides, the community here has a strong circle of support for everything, in terms of finance and religious rituals.

Just look at how close the houses are built next to each other. It is really a tight knitted community. One good thing about this kind of lifestyle: When Chinese New Year arrives, it is just spectacular! Fireworks flaring up into the sky until 2-3am at the stroke of midnight, sounds of long, red strings of firecrackers popping, like continuous gunshots, one after another! The whole sky will be just like a fantastic art display!

Ahhh.... Pangkor, Pangkor. In time to come, I believe it will be one of the most popular tourist desinations in Malaysia. Peace & tranquility, the two most common elements lost with the advance of technology along with globalization. My only hope? This island will not be robbed of the elements that define their lives and homes. May the fishermen have an excellent catch daily, bringing bright smiles back home, lighting up their children's cute, innocent features!



Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Change & Transformation

In every era & venue, change is occuring all the time. Some are fast, some, slow. More often than not, as 'city-fied' people with professional careers, we are often too busy to notice, or even bother.

The last time I stayed with my friend in Pangkor before I graduated from university, I was pretty impressed with the well at the back of her house. I remember seeing her mother using a thick rope and tied to a bucket, drawing water from the well every time she needed to cook, wash and clean. The rooms were next to the living room, next to the dining area.

This time around though, the wooden walls of the house has been replaced by bricks. The well had been removed and replaced by tiles. I was devastated to hear that the well was 'killed'. After all, having a well in a house is like having a 10,000 year old antique vase from the Qing Dynasty. Wells like my friend's, which can, in fact, still be utilized, are almost extinct these days. So, it was a sad state of affairs for me.

Yet, when I think deeply about it, change, is, sometimes necessary. For without change, from whence come progress?

Change is inevitable. Most of the time, it is within the best interest of the younger generation. More often than not, change is for the best.