Limbang is a small town. Nevertheless, it is still hard to spot a shop which displayed the ‘Tour Agency’ signboard right above it. Furthermore, it was a Sunday. Most people were skeptical about the agents opening their shops on a Sunday morning. However, being all perky and hyper, I was optimistic. I knew we were going to find one.
We drove around town, asking around for about half an hour before we managed to spot a tour agent. We stepped into the shop and asked for a tour guide to Mulu Caves. The agent looked shocked. “We don’t conduct trips to Mulu Caves. Where are you from?” he asked, curious.
“We’re from KL.” We answered.
“From KL?” Another hint of that surprised tone. “All the way from KL? How did you end up in Limbang? Did you fly to Limbang from Miri?”
“Umm… No. We drove from Miri, went through Brunei, and arrived in Limbang last night.”
“Why did you come all the way to Limbang? What’s attractive here? It’s only a small town!” came the response.
“Hmm.. we just came to meet a friend. That’s all.” I gave a short reply. We sure sparked their curiousity, didn’t we?
“Well,” the agent began flipping through his handy telephone book. “I have one guy here, whom I know who brings people into the Mulu Caves. Let me give him a call. There are not many people who go to Mulu Caves from here, you know? It’s not so popular. You should have taken the trip to Mulu from Miri. Not here.”
“Hmm…. This is an unarranged plan. In fact, we were supposed to go to Mulu with another tour guide. Unfortunately, he had other commitments to attend to, that’s why we ‘re searching for a guide only now.” We explained.
The agent gave a call to Mr. Lim, the tour guide to Mulu caves. Mr. Lim arrived within 10 minutes. He gave one look at us and dismissed us with his tone. “Why would you want to go to the Great Pinnacles and Mulu Caves from Limbang? It’s a long distance, young people. It’s tough. You have to walk a certain distance, climb up the mountains, and be baked under the sun. Are you up for it? Are you sure you can take it? Why don’t you fly to Miri and take a flight there instead?”
And so, we repeated our whole conversation with the agent earlier. Mr. Lim listened and said, “Hmm… well, I understand. It’d incur more cost on you if you flew to Miri. But are you prepared for it? Let me remind you, it’s tough. Not everybody can make it.”
Then, he narrowed his eyes, peered through his long-sighted glasses and gave another good look at us. “Seems to me you are all unprepared, young people. 2 of you are overweight, you would have to heave your own weight up to the mountains. I don’t think you can even walk up to the camp and reach in one day! And all of you are inappropriately dressed. Short sleeves? Jeans? Branded sports shoes? These are certainly all the wrong materials that spell trouble in the jungle. I have brought many people to Mulu Caves and you definitely seem as if you wouldn’t make it. Trust me. It is hard. It is not an easy journey to make. You’ll definitely regret it.”
When I heard that, I thought, “It’s fine with me. I’d gladly spend a day visiting Lawas instead of visiting Mulu. Oh! But I came all the way here just to go to Mulu Caves! If I didn’t go, that would defeat the purpose of this whole trip, wouldn’t it?”
Amelia, on the other hand, was undeterred. The more this Mr. Lim talked about how tough it was to reach the top, the more she was determined to make the trip. She was probably thinking, “Who’s this old man who thinks I can’t make it? He doesn’t even know me. I know myself very well. I know I can make it. I came all the way to see the caves. I won’t be easily put off or give up just because of what you said!”
Adam was probably thinking the same thing. He coolly asked Mr. Lim how much it’d cost for the whole trip. Mr. Lim did some fast calculation and came up with a figure. It seemed much too high for us at first.
“Well, young people, you better decide fast. If you want to go, I’ll have to arrange for the transportation by boat, book the rooms and the spaces at the camp, buy food and so on. Let me know by noon.” Mr. Lim said.
So, we told him that we would call him as soon as we arrived to our decision.
Then, we drove around town searching for alternative tour agents to Mulu caves. We managed to find 2 more agents. Nevertheless, all of them pointed to the same old guy, Mr. Lim. Looks like we didn’t have any choice except for him. So, we took a vote, and decided to go for it!
Once the decision was made, my own emotions were in conflict with one another again. On one hand, I was hopping around, eager to visit the caves; on the other hand, I was depressed to depart with Rosli and Asrin. I haven’t met Rosli for more than a year! And the moment we met, we spent only a day with each other! I was so sad at that very moment. I held back my tears and sadly pushed the bag of chocolates into his hand. “There! This is for you. Thanks for bringing us around! I hope to see you again soon! Have a safe journey back to Lawas yar!”
Then, we shifted to a new room, and stepped out once again to pay Mr. Lim for the guiding fees, which would include food and lodging fees. At his office, he showed us pictures of some rare flora and fauna that we would encounter on our way up Gunung Api and Mulu Caves. He also enthusiastically took out pictures of him when he was still in his 20s, staring proudly at the camera, with the view of the Great Pinnacles at the background. All of us were inspired. We do want to see it with our very own eyes. With that, the deal was sealed. We paid our dues and was out in no time, shopping for all the necessities.
First, we went to the local supermarket to buy the following:
1. Medicated Oil to remove the leeches
2. A Poncho to keep our bags and own selves dry when it rains
3. A pair of tights to keep the leeches from sucking our sweet blood
4. Some chocolates to munch along the way
5. A reliable pair of Malaysian Made rubber shoes, which provided good grip in the muddy grounds of the forest, and doesn’t split into two after being soaked in wet soil for 4 days.
In the evening, we walked along the river reputed for boating competition held bi-annually. Across it, were villages on stilts. I even caught a young kid flying his kite, from his verandah, right on top of the river. He didn’t even have to run far for the kite to lift itself up. All he had to do was gave a light tug at the kite and it flew right up into the air.
I was so impressed that I lost myself, staring into the sky, at the kite flying high above the clouds.
Then we went to Tasik Mas to climb Bukit Mas. Several flights of stairs we had to climb. “Sort of a warm-up exercise before we climb the real mountain.” Adam remarked.
Exercise indeed it was. Knowing myself, I panted, huffed and puffed all the way up to the top. The sun was setting and the sky was pink at the end of the horizons. I looked far ahead and I just absorbed the moment. As darkness fell upon us, we made our way back down to the foot of the hill and walked all the way to Sugar Bun for dinner.
*Note: I later found out from Saudi that his mom used to climb Bukit Mas. Saudi's narration:"I remember my mother telling me something.. When she was young, she and some of her friends and sisters found a cave there, they went in and found a lot of snakes....!!!!! Then they ran quickly from there. My mother told me she did not want to venture into that cave anymore.. Too dangerous she said.. But she loves going to Bukit Mas.. Many fond memories as a teenager... And she told me memories last a lifetime.."
How true... Memories do last forever...
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